Compact Workbench

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut all the pieces

   Cut every piece on the cut list. Before you start on the 2x6s, sight down each board and save the straightest for the top.

   • A Legs, four at 34½″ from the 4x4s
   • B Long aprons, two at 37″
   • C Short aprons, two at 12″
   • D Shelf rails, two at 12″
   • E Top boards, four at 47″
   • F Shelf boards, two at 44″
   • G Center brace, one at 16″

   Watch outAll four legs must be exactly the same length or the workbench will rock. Clamp them side by side and check that the ends line up.
2. 
   02

   Drill the pocket holes

   Set your jig for 1½″ material. Drill on the inside faces only, so no holes show on the finished piece:

   • B long aprons: 2 at each end, plus 4 along the top edge for attaching the top
   • C short aprons: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge
   • D shelf rails: 2 at each end
   • G center brace: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge, all on the same face
   • E top boards: 5 along one edge of three boards, starting about 4″ from each end. The last board needs none.

   TipMark the inside face of every piece with a big pencil X before you drill. It's easy to drill a show face by mistake.
3. 
   03

   Build the two leg ends

   Lay two legs (A) on the bench. Fit a short apron (C) between them at the top, flush with the tops and the outside faces of the legs, pocket holes facing in. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws.

   Fit a shelf rail (D) between the same legs with its bottom edge 6″ up from the bottom of the legs, flush with the outside faces. Then build the second end to match.

   TipCut a 6″ scrap block and stand the rail on it while you screw. Both ends come out identical.
4. 
   04

   Connect the ends with the long aprons

   Stand both ends up. Fit the long aprons (B) between them at the top, flush with the tops and outside faces, pocket holes facing in. Glue and screw.

   Measure the base corner to corner both ways. When the two diagonals match, it's square. Push on the long corners to adjust before the glue sets.

5. 
   05

   Add the center brace

   Mark the middle of each long apron, 18½″ from either end. Fit the center brace (G) between the aprons on those marks, flush with their top edges, pocket holes facing the same way. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws.

   The brace stiffens the middle of the top so it doesn't bounce when you hammer or clamp.

6. 
   06

   Add the shelf boards

   Lay the two shelf boards (F) on the shelf rails, between the legs, with a 1″ gap between them. Keep the ends flush with the outside of the rails.

   Pre-drill and drive two 2½″ wood screws through each end of each board into the rails.

7. 
   07

   Join the top boards

   Lay the four top boards (E) face down with the pocket holes along the joints. Line up the ends, clamp the boards flat, glue the edges and drive the screws. Work from the middle out.

   Watch outClamp across each joint right at the screw you're driving so the faces stay flush. A step between boards means a lot of extra sanding.
8. 
   08

   Attach the top

   Lay the top (E) face down on a blanket. Center the base upside down on it, with 1½″ of overhang on every side. Drive 2½″ pocket screws through the apron and brace holes into the top.

   TipDon't glue the top to the base. Solid wood moves a little with the seasons, and screws alone let it.
9. 
   09

   Sand and finish

   Sand the top with 80 grit until the joints between boards are flat, then 120. Flat matters more than smooth on a bench.

   Skip the stain. Two coats of wipe-on oil or polyurethane keep glue and finish from soaking in. A workbench gets dents and scuffs, and that's fine.

   Tip36″ suits most people. For a better fit, measure from the floor to your wrist with your arms at your sides, and cut the legs to match.