Farmhouse Dining Bench
Draft · not yet checked by a carpenterA 5 ft bench to match the farmhouse dining table. It seats two or three, and it slides right under the table between the legs.
- Skill
- Beginner
- Build time
- 4 to 6 hours, plus finish
- Lumber
- 1 4x4, 3 2x4s and 3 2x6s
- Joinery
- Pocket holes
- Finished size
- 60″ L × 16½″ W × 18″ H
What you need
A 4x4 is actually 3½″ × 3½″, a 2x4 is 1½″ × 3½″ and a 2x6 is 1½″ × 5½″. Every measurement in this plan uses the real size.
Shopping list
- 14x4, 8 ftFor the legs.
- 32x4, 8 ftAprons, rails, the stretcher and the brace.
- 32x6, 8 ftSeat. Pick the straightest boards in the pile.
- ~702½″ coarse-thread pocket-hole screwsA box of 100 covers it.
- 1Wood glue
- —Sandpaper, 80, 120, 180 and 220 grit
- opt.Stain and a clear topcoat
Tools
- Miter saw or circular sawThe 4x4 legs may take two passes.
- Pocket-hole jigSet for 1½″ material.
- Drill/driver
- ClampsAt least two that open 24″ or more, for the seat.
- Speed square, tape measure, pencil
- Random orbit sander
Cut list
Fifteen pieces from seven boards. Label each piece with its letter in pencil as you cut it.
| Part | Qty | Size, inches | From |
|---|---|---|---|
| ALegs | 4 | 3½ × 3½ × 16½ | 4x4 |
| BLong aprons | 2 | 1½ × 3½ × 51 | 2x4 |
| CShort aprons | 2 | 1½ × 3½ × 7½ | 2x4 |
| DEnd rails | 2 | 1½ × 3½ × 7½ | 2x4 |
| ESeat boards | 3 | 1½ × 5½ × 60 | 2x6 |
| FCenter stretcher | 1 | 1½ × 3½ × 55 | 2x4 |
| GCenter brace | 1 | 1½ × 3½ × 11½ | 2x4 |
Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.
Build it
Nine steps. The 3D view follows along as you scroll. The parts you're working on are yellow, and the pocket holes for that step are red.
- 01
Cut all the pieces
Cut every piece on the cut list. Sight down each 2x6 first and save the straightest ones for the seat.
- A Legs, four at 16½″ from the 4x4
- B Long aprons, two at 51″
- C Short aprons, two at 7½″
- D End rails, two at 7½″
- E Seat boards, three at 60″
- F Center stretcher, one at 55″
- G Center brace, one at 11½″
Watch outAll four legs must be exactly the same length or the bench will rock. Clamp them side by side and check that the ends line up. - 02
Drill the pocket holes
Set your jig for 1½″ material. Drill on the inside faces only, so no holes show on the finished bench:
- B long aprons: 2 at each end, plus 4 along the top edge
- C short aprons: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge
- D end rails: 2 at each end
- F center stretcher: 2 at each end, on the same face
- G center brace: 2 at each end, plus 2 on the top edge near the middle, all on the same face
- E seat boards: seven along one edge of two boards, starting about 4″ from each end. The last board needs none.
TipMark the inside face of every piece with a big pencil X before you drill. It's easy to drill a show face by mistake. - 03
Build the two leg ends
Lay two legs (A) on the bench. Fit a short apron (C) between them at the top, flush with the tops and the outside faces of the legs, pocket holes facing in. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws.
Fit an end rail (D) between the same legs with its bottom edge 4″ up from the floor ends, flush with the outside faces. Then build the second end to match.
TipCut a 4″ scrap block and stand the rail on it while you screw. Both ends come out identical. - 04
Connect the ends with the long aprons
Stand both ends up. Fit the long aprons (B) between them at the top, flush with the tops and outside faces, pocket holes facing in. Glue and screw.
Measure the base corner to corner both ways. When the two diagonals match, it's square.
- 05
Add the center stretcher
Mark the middle of each end rail, 3¾″ from either side. Fit the center stretcher (F) between the end rails on those marks, flush with the rails top and bottom, pocket holes on the side. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws.
The rails and stretcher make an H low down. It keeps the legs from racking, and it sits in the middle where it stays clear of feet.
- 06
Add the center brace
Mark the middle of each long apron, 25½″ from the leg at either end. Center the brace (G) on the marks, between the long aprons, flush with their top edges and with the top pocket holes facing up. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws through the end holes.
The brace holds up the middle of the seat, right where people sit.
- 07
Join the seat boards
Lay the three seat boards (E) face down with the pocket holes along the joints. Line up the ends, clamp the boards flat, glue the edges and drive the screws. Work from the middle out.
Watch outClamp across each joint right at the screw you're driving so the faces stay flush. A step between boards means a lot of extra sanding. - 08
Attach the seat
Lay the seat (E) face down on a blanket. Center the base upside down on it, with 1″ of overhang on every side. Drive 2½″ pocket screws through the apron and brace holes into the seat.
TipSit on the bench and rock side to side before you finish it. If it moves, check that every leg screw is tight. - 09
Sand and finish
Sand with 80 grit to flatten the seat joints, then 120, then 180. Round over every edge people touch.
Wipe off the dust. Stain if you want color, then brush on three coats of a durable clear topcoat, sanding lightly with 220 between coats.
TipTest your stain on an offcut from the same boards first. Pine soaks it up unevenly, and a pre-stain conditioner helps.
Build at your own risk. Check every measurement against your own lumber before you cut, test-fit before you glue, and wear eye and ear protection. Full disclaimer.
