Farmhouse End Table

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut all the pieces

   Cut every piece on the cut list. Before you start on the 2x6s, sight down each board and save the straightest for the top.

   • A Legs, four at 22½″ from the 4x4
   • B Front and back aprons, two at 12″
   • C Side aprons, two at 12″
   • D Shelf rails, two at 12″
   • E Top boards, four at 22″
   • F Shelf boards, two at 19″

   Watch outAll four legs must be exactly the same length or the table will rock. Clamp them side by side and check that the ends line up.
2. 
   02

   Drill the pocket holes

   Set your jig for 1½″ material. Drill on the inside faces only, so no holes show on the finished piece:

   • B front and back aprons: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge for attaching the top
   • C side aprons: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge
   • D shelf rails: 2 at each end
   • E top boards: 2 along one edge of three boards, starting about 4″ from each end. The last board needs none.

   TipMark the inside face of every piece with a big pencil X before you drill. It's easy to drill a show face by mistake.
3. 
   03

   Build the two leg ends

   Lay two legs (A) on the bench. Fit a side apron (C) between them at the top, flush with the tops and the outside faces of the legs, pocket holes facing in. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws.

   Fit a shelf rail (D) between the same legs with its bottom edge 4″ up from the bottom of the legs, flush with the outside faces. Then build the second end to match.

   TipCut a 4″ scrap block and stand the rail on it while you screw. Both ends come out identical.
4. 
   04

   Connect the ends with the front and back aprons

   Stand both ends up. Fit the front and back aprons (B) between them at the top, flush with the tops and outside faces, pocket holes facing in. Glue and screw.

   Measure the base corner to corner both ways. When the two diagonals match, it's square. Push on the long corners to adjust before the glue sets.

5. 
   05

   Add the shelf boards

   Lay the two shelf boards (F) on the shelf rails, between the legs, with a 1″ gap between them. Keep the ends flush with the outside of the rails.

   Pre-drill and drive two 2½″ wood screws through each end of each board into the rails.

6. 
   06

   Join the top boards

   Lay the four top boards (E) face down with the pocket holes along the joints. Line up the ends, clamp the boards flat, glue the edges and drive the screws. Work from the middle out.

   Watch outClamp across each joint right at the screw you're driving so the faces stay flush. A step between boards means a lot of extra sanding.
7. 
   07

   Attach the top

   Lay the top (E) face down on a blanket. Center the base upside down on it, with 1½″ of overhang on every side. Drive 2½″ pocket screws through the apron holes into the top.

   TipDon't glue the top to the base. Solid wood moves a little with the seasons, and screws alone let it.
8. 
   08

   Sand and finish

   Sand with 80 grit to flatten the top joints, then 120, then 180. Soften the sharp edges with a few passes of sandpaper.

   Wipe off the dust. Stain if you want color, then brush or wipe on two or three coats of a clear topcoat, sanding lightly with 220 between coats.

   TipTest your stain on an offcut from the same boards first. Pine soaks it up unevenly, and a pre-stain conditioner helps.