Hairpin-Leg Coffee Table

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut the pieces

   Cut the three top boards (A) to length:

   • A Top boards, three at 47″

   Lay them side by side and shuffle them until the grain and color look best. Draw a big V across all three so they go back in the same order.

2. 
   02

   Drill the pocket holes

   With the jig set for 1½″, drill three pocket holes along one edge of two of the boards (A), on the underside: one in the middle and one about 6″ from each end.

3. 
   03

   Join the top boards

   Lay the boards (A) face down in order, pocket holes along the joints. Clamp them flat, glue the edges and drive 2½″ pocket screws from the middle out.

   Watch outClamp across each joint at the screw you're driving so the faces stay flush. A slab top shows every step between boards.
4. 
   04

   Sand the top

   Sand the top (A) with 80 grit to flatten the seams, then 120 and 180. Ease every edge and corner with one light pass of 120 grit.

   Finish it now, before the legs go on: two or three coats of a clear matte finish or hardwax oil, top, edges and underside.

5. 
   05

   Screw on the hairpin legs

   Lay the top (A) face down on a blanket. Set a hairpin leg in each corner with its plate ¾″ in from both edges, the rods leaning out toward the corner. Mark the holes, drill ⅛″ pilot holes no deeper than ¾″, and drive a #10 × 1″ pan-head screw in every hole.

   Check your legs' own instructions first. Some plates have three holes, some four, and the screws must stay shorter than the 1½″ top is thick.

6. 
   06

   Stand it up

   Flip the table onto its feet. If it rocks, press the plastic foot caps that come with most hairpin legs onto the rods, or add a felt pad under the short leg.