Entryway Hall Tree

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut the pieces

   Sight down every 2x4 and save the two straightest for the back posts (A). Then cut every piece on the cut list:

   • A Back posts, two at 71″
   • B Front legs, two at 16½″
   • C Side rails, four at 14″
   • D Front apron, one at 33″
   • E Back apron, one at 37″
   • F Center brace, one at 12½″
   • G Seat boards, three at 40″
   • H Shoe shelf boards, three at 40″
   • I Back planks, nine at 33″
   • J Header, one at 33″
   • K Hook rail, one at 40″
   • L Top shelf, one at 42″
   • M Shelf brackets, three at 6⅜″

   For each shelf bracket (M), cut both ends of the blank at 45°, pointing toward each other, so you get a triangle with two 4½″ sides at a square corner.

2. 
   02

   Drill the pocket holes

   Drill every pocket hole on the faces that won't show. Set the jig for 1½″ stock first:

   • two at each end of the four side rails (C), the front apron (D), the back apron (E) and the center brace (F)
   • along the top edge, for the seat: two in each upper side rail (C), four in each apron (D, E) and three in the brace (F)

   Then set it for ¾″ stock and drill two at each end of the nine back planks (I) and the header (J), on the back face.

3. 
   03

   Build the two sides

   Lay a back post (A) and a front leg (B) on the floor, 17″ apart at the outside. Fit two side rails (C) between them, flush with the outside edge: one with its top flush with the top of the leg, the other 1″ up from the floor. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws. Build the other side as a mirror image.

   TipStand the lower rail on a 1″ scrap while you screw. Both sides come out the same.
4. 
   04

   Join the sides

   Stand the two sides up. Fit the front apron (D) between the front legs and the back apron (E) between the side rails, right in front of the posts, all flush with the tops of the rails. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws, then two 2½″ screws through the back of each post into the back apron.

   Fit the center brace (F) between the aprons at the middle, 19¼″ from either end, and screw it in.

   Measure the frame corner to corner across the top. When the diagonals match, it's square.

5. 
   05

   Add the seat

   Lay the three seat boards (G) on the frame, edge to edge, the back one tight against the posts and the front one overhanging the front legs by 1″. Line up the ends with the outside of the legs. Drive 2½″ pocket screws up through the frame into each board.

   TipRound over the front edge of the seat before it goes on. That edge sits under the backs of people's legs.
6. 
   06

   Add the shoe shelf

   Lay the three shoe shelf boards (H) across the lower side rails, between the posts and the legs, about ⅞″ apart. Keep their ends flush with the outside. Pre-drill and drive two 2½″ screws through each end into the rail.

7. 
   07

   Add the back planks

   Fit the nine back planks (I) between the posts one at a time, starting on top of the seat, each one tight on the one below and flush with the front of the posts. Glue the ends and drive 1¼″ pocket screws into the posts. Finish with the header (J), flush with the tops of the posts.

   TipCheck with a level every couple of planks. If the gap at one end grows, plane or sand that plank's edge.
8. 
   08

   Add the top shelf

   Screw the three shelf brackets (M) to the front of the posts and the middle of the header, their tops flush with the top of the posts: two 2½″ screws from behind into each.

   Lay the top shelf (L) on the posts, the header and the brackets, flush at the back and overhanging 1″ at each end. Drive 1⅝″ screws down into the posts, the header and each bracket.

9. 
   09

   Add the hook rail

   Glue the hook rail (K) across the front of the posts and planks, its top 61½″ up from the floor. Drive three 1¼″ screws into each post and four into the plank behind it, spaced between where the hooks will go.

10. 
    10

    Sand and finish

    Fill the screw holes on the shelf and the hook rail, sand with 120 then 180 grit, and round every edge and corner a little, the seat front most of all. Paint or stain, then seal the seat with two or three coats of clear topcoat: it gets the most wear.

11. 
    11

    Add the hooks and anchor it

    Mark five coat hooks across the hook rail (K), 8″ apart, centered on it. Pre-drill and screw them on.

    Stand the hall tree in place, check that it sits flat, and anchor the header to a wall stud with the furniture anti-tip kit, following its instructions.

    Watch outA hall tree with heavy coats on the hooks can tip if a child climbs it or swings on a hook. Always anchor it to a stud.