Rustic X Console Table
Draft · not yet checked by a carpenterTwo stacked X's on each end, a three-plank top and a center stretcher. Twelve angled pieces, all fitted to their frames.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Build time
- 8 to 10 hours, plus finish
- Lumber
- 5 2x4s and 2 2x6s
- Joinery
- Pocket holes
- Finished size
- 47″ L × 16½″ W × 30″ H
What you need
A 2x4 is actually 1½″ × 3½″ and a 2x6 is 1½″ × 5½″. Every measurement in this plan uses the real size.
Shopping list
- 52x4, 8 ftFrame, X pieces and stretcher. The offcuts leave room for test-fitting the X.
- 22x6, 8 ftFor the top. Pick the straightest boards in the pile.
- ~802½″ coarse-thread pocket-hole screwsA box of 100 covers it.
- 1Wood glue
- —Sandpaper, 80, 120 and 180 grit
- opt.Dark stain and a clear topcoat
Tools
- Miter sawMakes the angled X cuts much easier than a circular saw. It needs to reach 47°.
- Pocket-hole jigSet for 1½″ material.
- Drill/driver
- ClampsAt least two that open 24″ or more.
- Speed square, tape measure, pencil
- A straight boardFor tracing the X cuts.
- Random orbit sander
Cut list
Twenty-six pieces from seven boards. The X pieces start as rough blanks and get cut to fit in steps 4 and 5.
| Part | Qty | Size, inches | From |
|---|---|---|---|
| ALegs | 4 | 1½ × 3½ × 28½ | 2x4 |
| BEnd aprons | 2 | 1½ × 3½ × 11½ | 2x4 |
| CLong aprons | 2 | 1½ × 3½ × 38 | 2x4 |
| DStretcher | 1 | 1½ × 3½ × 42 | 2x4 |
| ETop boards | 3 | 1½ × 5½ × 47 | 2x6 |
| FLong X piecesBlank. Cut to fit, about 15¾″ point to point. | 4 | 1½ × 3½ × 16½ | 2x4 |
| GShort X piecesBlank. Cut to fit, about 6¼″ long. | 8 | 1½ × 3½ × 7 | 2x4 |
| HMiddle rails | 2 | 1½ × 3½ × 11½ | 2x4 |
Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. F and G are rough blanks. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.
Build it
Nine steps. The 3D view follows along as you scroll. The parts you're working on are yellow, and the pocket holes for that step are red.
- 01
Cut the straight pieces
Cut these to length:
- A Legs, four at 28½″
- B End aprons, two at 11½″
- H Middle rails, two at 11½″
- C Long aprons, two at 38″
- D Stretcher, one at 42″
- E Top boards, three at 47″
Then rough-cut the X blanks: four at 16½″ (F) and eight at 7″ (G). You'll trim those to fit later.
Watch outClamp the four legs together and check the ends line up before you build anything. Uneven legs make a table that rocks. - 02
Drill the pocket holes
Set your jig for 1½″ material and drill on the inside faces only:
- B end aprons: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge
- H middle rails: 2 at each end
- C long aprons: 2 at each end, plus 4 along the top edge
- D stretcher: 2 at each end, on the same face
- E top boards: 5 along one edge of two boards
The X pieces get their pocket holes later, after you fit them.
- 03
Build the two end frames
Lay two legs (A) on a flat bench. Fit an end apron (B) between them at the top, flush with the leg tops and the outside faces, pocket holes facing in. Glue and drive 2½″ pocket screws.
Fit a middle rail (H) between the same legs with its bottom edge 10¾″ up from the floor ends, flush with the outside faces. Glue and screw it the same way.
Lay a straight board across the bottom ends of the legs. That edge stands in for the floor when you fit the X. Build the second frame to match.
TipCut a 10¾″ scrap block and stand the middle rail on it while you screw. Both frames come out identical. - 04
Fit the long X pieces
Each end has two openings, one below the middle rail and one above it, and each gets its own X. Lay a 16½″ blank (F) across the lower opening from the bottom of one leg to the top corner on the other side. Trace along the legs, the middle rail and the floor board where they cross it, and cut to the lines. Do the same in the upper opening, tracing along the legs, the middle rail and the apron.
Your saw will be close to 47° for the cuts that meet the floor, the rail or the apron, and 43° for the cuts that meet the legs. The finished piece is about 15¾″ point to point.
Drill a pocket hole near each end on the inside face, then glue and screw it into the frame.
Watch outSneak up on the fit. Cut a little long, test it, and trim. A snug X is what makes the end rigid. Save your offcuts: they are there for a second try. - 05
Fit the short X pieces
Each short piece (G) runs from a corner to the long piece. Cut the corner end to a point the same way as F. Then hold it in place, mark where it meets F, and cut that end at about 3¾°. They come out about 6¼″ long.
Drill one pocket hole near the corner end, glue both ends and screw it to the frame. Repeat on the second frame.
- 06
Connect the ends with the long aprons
Stand the two end frames up with their pocket holes facing in. Fit the long aprons (C) between them at the top, flush with the tops and outside faces. Glue and screw.
Measure corner to corner both ways. When the diagonals match, the base is square.
- 07
Add the stretcher
Fit the stretcher (D) between the two middle rails, centered front to back and flush with the top and bottom edges of the rails. Drive pocket screws through its ends into the rails.
- 08
Build and attach the top
Lay the three top boards (E) face down, pocket holes along the joints. Clamp them flat, glue the edges and drive 2½″ pocket screws from the middle out.
Center the base upside down on the top, with 1″ of overhang on every side, and screw up through the apron holes. No glue between the top and the base.
- 09
Sand and finish
Sand with 80 grit to flatten the top joints, then 120 and 180. Soften the edges and the points of the X a little.
A dark stain followed by a clear topcoat suits the rustic look. Test the stain on an offcut first.
Build at your own risk. Check every measurement against your own lumber before you cut, test-fit before you glue, and wear eye and ear protection. Full disclaimer.
