U-Leg Writing Desk

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut the pieces

   Cut every piece on the cut list:

   • A Top boards, three at 47″
   • B Cleat, one at 23¾″

   Lay the three top boards side by side and shuffle them until the best faces are up and the grain looks good. Draw a big V across them so they go back in the same order.

2. 
   02

   Drill the pocket holes

   With the jig set for 1½″, drill four pocket holes along one edge of two of the top boards (A), on the underside: 8″ and 16″ from each end. That keeps them clear of the legs and the cleat.

3. 
   03

   Join the top boards

   Lay the boards (A) face down in order, pocket holes along the joints. Clamp them flat, glue the edges and drive 2½″ pocket screws from the middle out.

   Watch outYou'll write on this top, so the joints must be flush. Clamp across each joint right at the screw you're driving.
4. 
   04

   Add the cleat

   Center the cleat (B) across the underside of the top (A), 2″ in from the front and back edges. Drill its screw holes, making the outer ones ¼″ wide so the top can move with the seasons, then drive six 1¼″ wood screws. No glue.

5. 
   05

   Screw on the U legs

   Set a U leg across each end of the top (A), its top bar 3″ in from the end and centered front to back, about 2″ in from each edge. Mark the holes, drill ⅛″ pilot holes no deeper than 1¼″, and drive a #10 × 1″ pan-head screw in every hole.

   Check your legs' own instructions first. The plan is drawn for legs 28″ tall and 23⅝″ wide; the screws must stay shorter than the 1½″ top is thick.

6. 
   06

   Sand and finish

   Stand the desk up. Sand the top with 80 grit to flatten the seams, then 120, 180 and 220, and ease every edge. A writing surface wants a hard finish: three coats of polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.