Kids' Table
Draft · not yet checked by a carpenterA sturdy play table at kid height: a three-board slab top on slim legs, with a lower frame so it doesn't wobble.
- Skill
- Beginner
- Build time
- 3 to 4 hours, plus finish
- Lumber
- 1 2x2, 2 1x4s and 1 2x8
- Joinery
- Pocket holes
- Finished size
- 30″ L × 21¾″ W × 20″ H
What you need
A 2x2 is actually 1½″ × 1½″, a 1x4 is ¾″ × 3½″ and a 2x8 is 1½″ × 7¼″. Every measurement in this plan uses the real size.
Shopping list
- 12x2, 8 ftFor the legs. Sight down it to make sure it's straight.
- 21x4, 8 ftFor the aprons and stretchers. Select or premium pine looks cleanest.
- 12x8, 8 ftFor the top. Look for straight grain and no big knots near the edges.
- ~501¼″ coarse-thread pocket-hole screwsFor the ¾″ aprons.
- ~102½″ coarse-thread pocket-hole screwsFor joining the top boards.
- 1Wood glue
- —Sandpaper, 80 to 220 grit
- opt.Clear matte finish or hardwax oil
Tools
- Miter saw or circular saw
- Pocket-hole jigSet for ¾″ for the aprons and 1½″ for the top.
- Drill/driver
- ClampsTwo that open 24″ or more.
- Speed square, tape measure, pencil
- Random orbit sander
Cut list
Fifteen pieces from four boards. Label each piece with its letter in pencil as you cut it.
| Part | Qty | Size, inches | From |
|---|---|---|---|
| ALegs | 4 | 1½ × 1½ × 18½ | 2x2 |
| BLong apronsTwo are the lower stretchers. | 4 | ¾ × 3½ × 25 | 1x4 |
| CShort apronsTwo are the lower stretchers. | 4 | ¾ × 3½ × 16¾ | 1x4 |
| DTop boards | 3 | 1½ × 7¼ × 30 | 2x8 |
Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.
Build it
Seven steps. The 3D view follows along as you scroll. The parts you're working on are yellow, and the pocket holes for that step are red.
- 01
Cut all the pieces
Cut every piece on the cut list:
- A Legs, four at 18½″ from the 2x2
- B Long aprons, four at 25″
- C Short aprons, four at 16¾″
- D Top boards, three at 30″ from the 2x8
Watch outClamp the four legs together and check the ends line up. Slim legs show any difference, and the table will rock. - 02
Drill the pocket holes
Drill on the inside faces only, so no holes show:
- B long aprons, jig set for ¾″: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge of the two top ones
- C short aprons, jig set for ¾″: 2 at each end, plus 2 along the top edge of the two top ones
- D top boards, jig set for 1½″: 3 along one edge of two boards, starting about 4″ from each end
TipLay out the top boards first and shuffle them until the grain looks best. Draw a big V across the joints so they go back in the same order. - 03
Join the top boards
Lay the three top boards (D) face down in order, pocket holes along the joints. Line up the ends, clamp them flat, glue the edges and drive 2½″ pocket screws from the middle out.
Watch outOn a clean modern top every seam shows. Clamp across each joint at the screw you're driving so the faces stay perfectly flush. - 04
Build the two ends
Fit a short apron (C) between two legs (A) at the top, flush with the leg tops and the outside faces, pocket holes facing in. Glue and drive 1¼″ pocket screws.
Fit a second short apron (C) between the same legs with its bottom edge 4″ up from the floor ends. It stiffens the slim legs.
Build the second end to match.
TipCut a 4″ scrap block and stand the lower stretcher on it while you screw. Both ends come out identical. - 05
Connect the ends with the long aprons
Stand the ends up and fit the long aprons (B) between them at the top the same way: flush with the tops and outside faces, pocket holes in. Glue and screw. Fit the other two the same way, lined up with the lower stretchers on the ends.
Measure corner to corner both ways. When the diagonals match, the base is square.
- 06
Attach the top
Lay the top (D) face down on a blanket. Center the base upside down on it, with 1″ of overhang on every side. Drive 1¼″ pocket screws through the apron holes into the top.
TipScrews only, no glue between the top and the base, so the top can move with the seasons. - 07
Sand and finish
Sand with 80 grit to flatten the seams, then 120, 180 and 220.
Round every corner of the top to at least a 1″ radius: trace a cup, cut with a jigsaw and sand smooth. Then sand every edge soft so there are no sharp corners at a kid's eye level.
Watch outUse a finish that's labeled safe for toys once it has cured, and let it cure fully before the table goes into use.
Build at your own risk. Check every measurement against your own lumber before you cut, test-fit before you glue, and wear eye and ear protection. Full disclaimer.
