Outdoor Coffee Table

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut all the pieces

   Everything comes from 2x4s. Cut every piece on the cut list, and save the straightest boards for the top slats:

   • A Legs, four at 16½″
   • B End aprons, two at 16¼″
   • C Long aprons, two at 29″
   • D Center support, one at 16¼″
   • E Shelf rails, two at 16¼″
   • F Shelf slats, four at 36″
   • G Top slats, six at 39″

   Watch outPressure-treated lumber is often wet from the store. Let it dry for a week or two, stacked with spacers, before you build, or the gaps will open up as it shrinks.
2. 
   02

   Drill the pocket holes

   Set your jig for 1½″ material and drill on the inside faces only:

   • B end aprons and E shelf rails: 2 at each end
   • C long aprons: 2 at each end
   • D center support: 2 at each end, both on the same face

   The slats get screwed down from the top, so they need no pocket holes.

3. 
   03

   Build the two ends

   Lay an end apron (B) flat on the bench, pocket holes up, and butt two legs (A) against its ends. Keep the apron flush with the leg tops and with their outside faces. Drive 2½″ exterior pocket screws.

   Fit a shelf rail (E) between the same legs with its bottom edge 3″ up from the floor ends. Build the second end to match.

   TipCut a 3″ scrap block and stand the rail on it while you screw. Both ends come out identical.
4. 
   04

   Connect the ends with the long aprons

   Stand the ends up. Fit the long aprons (C) between the legs at the top, flush with the tops and outside faces, pocket holes facing in. Screw them in.

   Measure corner to corner both ways. When the diagonals match, the base is square.

5. 
   05

   Add the center support

   Mark the middle of each long apron, 14½″ from either end. Fit the center support (D) between the aprons on those marks, flush with their top edges, and screw it in. It keeps the top slats from bouncing in the middle.

6. 
   06

   Add the shelf slats

   Lay the four shelf slats (F) flat across the shelf rails, between the legs, about ¾″ apart. Keep the ends flush with the outside of the rails.

   Pre-drill and drive two 2½″ exterior screws through each end into the rail.

7. 
   07

   Add the top slats

   Lay the six top slats (G) across the frame with ¼″ gaps between them and 1½″ of overhang on every side. Start with the two outside slats, then fill in the middle.

   Pre-drill and drive two 2½″ exterior screws through each slat into each end apron and the center support. Keep the screws in straight lines: it looks neater.

   TipA ¼″ drill bit or a scrap of ¼″ plywood makes a perfect spacer for the gaps.
8. 
   08

   Sand and seal

   Ease every edge with 80 grit, then 120, so nobody catches a splinter. The gaps let rain drain off the top.

   Finish with an exterior stain or penetrating deck sealer, and recoat every year or two. Cedar can also be left bare to weather gray.