Pull-Out Trash Cabinet

Cut list

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

1. 
   01

   Cut the pieces

   Check your pull-out's own instructions for the minimum opening, its screw positions and its door brackets before you cut. This box gives it 13½″ of width, 23″ of depth and 30¼″ of height.

   Cut every piece on the cut list. The store can rip the plywood into strips for you:

   • A Sides, two at 23″ × 31¾″
   • B Bottom, one at 13½″ × 23″
   • C Shelf, one at 13½″ × 22″
   • D Door, one at 14⅞″ × 31½″
   • E Top, one at 16″ × 24½″
   • F Back, one at 15″ × 31¾″
   • G Top stretchers, two at 13½″
   • H Base front and back, two at 14″
   • J Base sides, two at 18¼″
2. 
   02

   Drill pocket holes and band the edges

   With the pocket-hole jig set for ¾″, drill three pocket holes along each end of the bottom (B) on its underside, two at each end of the shelf (C) on its underside, and two at each end of both top stretchers (G) on the face that will be on top.

   Iron edge banding onto the front edges of the sides (A) and the shelf (C), all four edges of the door (D), and the front and side edges of the top (E). Trim it flush.

3. 
   03

   Build the base

   Stand the base sides (J) between the base front and back (H), and drive two 3″ screws through the front and back into each end. Check the diagonals match so it's square.

4. 
   04

   Build the box

   Stand the two sides (A) up and glue and pocket-screw the bottom (B) between them, flush at the bottom, front and back. Pocket-screw the two top stretchers (G) between the sides at the top, one flush with the front and one flush with the back edges of the sides, pocket holes facing up.

5. 
   05

   Add the shelf

   Glue and pocket-screw the shelf (C) between the sides, its top 23″ above the floor of the box and its front edge 1″ back from the front. It holds trash bags and clears the top of the can by about 3″.

6. 
   06

   Nail on the back

   Lay the box face down. Measure both diagonals and push it square until they match. Glue and nail the back (F) to the sides, bottom, shelf and back stretcher with 1″ brads every 6″ or so.

7. 
   07

   Set it on the base and add the top

   Stand the box on the base, flush at the back and centered side to side. The base sits 1½″ back from the front so your toes fit under the door. Drive four 1⅝″ screws down through the bottom (B) into the base.

   Lay the top (E) on, flush at the back and overhanging ½″ at each side. Screw up through the stretchers (G) into it with 1¼″ screws.

8. 
   08

   Sand and finish

   Sand with 120 then 180 grit. Paint the cabinet and door, or stain them and seal with polyurethane. Three coats on the top: it gets wiped a lot.

9. 
   09

   Install the pull-out

   Set the pull-out on the floor of the box, centered side to side, with its front where its instructions say for a full-overlay door. Screw it down with the screws that come with it, through the holes in its base.

   Pull it all the way out and push it back in: it should run smoothly without touching the sides or the shelf.

10. 
    10

    Hang the door on the pull-out

    Hold the door (D) against the front of the pull-out with an even gap at the top and sides, and screw it to the pull-out's door brackets from inside. Adjust the brackets until the gaps are even. Screw a pull near the top of the door.

    Watch outWith a full can pulled out, this cabinet could tip forward. Screw it to the cabinet beside it through the side, or anchor it to a wall stud with a furniture anti-tip kit.
11. 
    11

    Pull it out

    Pull the handle: the door and the can roll out together. Lift the can out of its frame to empty it.

    Watch outKeep fingers clear of the slides and the door edge as it closes.