Woodworking plan · No. 18

Firewood Rack

Draft · not yet checked by a carpenter

A 4 ft rack that keeps about a third of a face cord of firewood off the ground. A few 2x4s and a pocket-hole jig.

Skill
Beginner
Build time
2 to 3 hours
Lumber
4 2x4s
Joinery
Pocket holes
Finished size
48″ W × 16″ D × 36″ H
Drag to spin · pinch or scroll to zoom

What you need

Lumber sizes

A 2x4 is actually 1½″ × 3½″. Every measurement in this plan uses the real size.

Shopping list

  • 4Pressure-treated 2x4, 8 ftPressure-treated, rated for ground contact.
  • ~402½″ exterior-rated pocket-hole screwsCoated, made for treated lumber.
  • opt.Pavers or gravelTo set the rack on.

Tools

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Pocket-hole jigSet for 1½″ material.
  • Drill/driver
  • Speed square, tape measure, pencil
  • Dust maskFor cutting treated lumber.

Cut list

Eleven pieces from four boards. Label each piece with its letter in pencil as you cut it.

PartQtySize, inchesFrom
AUprights41½ × 3½ × 362x4
BEnd cross pieces41½ × 3½ × 92x4
CBottom rails21½ × 3½ × 452x4
DTop rail11½ × 3½ × 452x4

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Build it

Six steps. The 3D view follows along as you scroll. The parts you're working on are yellow, and the pocket holes for that step are red.

Step 1 of 6Cut the pieces
  1. 01

    Cut the pieces

    Cut every piece from pressure-treated 2x4s:

    • A Uprights, four at 36″
    • B End cross pieces, four at 9″
    • C Bottom rails, two at 45″
    • D Top rail, one at 45″
    Watch outBuy lumber rated for ground contact: the bottom rails sit right on the ground. Wear a dust mask when you cut treated wood and don't burn the offcuts.
  2. 02

    Drill the pocket holes

    Set your jig for 1½″ material and drill 2 holes at each end of every cross piece (B), bottom rail (C) and the top rail (D), all on one face. Those faces go on the inside.

  3. 03

    Build the two end frames

    Lay two uprights (A) on the bench, wide faces up. Fit an end cross piece (B) between them at the bottom and another at the top, flush with the ends and the faces, pocket holes up. Drive 2½″ exterior pocket screws.

    Measure the frame corner to corner both ways and push it square before the last screws. Build the second frame to match.

  4. 04

    Add the bottom rails

    Stand the frames up, 45″ apart, pocket holes facing in. Fit the two bottom rails (C) between the uprights, flush with the bottoms and the outside faces. Screw them in.

    The firewood sits on these two rails, clear of the ground.

  5. 05

    Add the top rail

    Fit the top rail (D) between the back uprights, flush with the tops and the back faces, and screw it in. It ties the frames together and keeps the back of the stack straight.

  6. 06

    Set it up and stack it

    Set the rack on level ground, ideally on a few pavers or a bed of gravel so the rails stay dry. Keep it a couple of feet from the house.

    Stack the wood tight against both end frames, bark side up. A full rack holds about 14 cubic feet, about a third of a face cord. Cover the top only, so air can still move through the sides.

    TipLoad the ends first and work toward the middle. A tight stack braces the rack.
Build safely

Build at your own risk. Check every measurement against your own lumber before you cut, test-fit before you glue, and wear eye and ear protection. Full disclaimer.

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