Woodworking plan · No. 111

Hairpin-Leg Desk

A clean 48″ writing or computer desk: a thick plywood top with a solid wood edge, on four steel hairpin legs.

Skill
Level 2 of 5 · Beginner
Build time
4 to 6 hours, plus finish
Lumber
2 1x2s and 2 panels of ¾″ plywood
Joinery
Glue, screws and brads; leg screws
Finished size
48″ W × 24″ D × 29½″ H
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Beginner build
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What you need

Lumber sizes

A 1x2 is actually ¾″ × 1½″. Every measurement in this plan uses the real size. ¾″ plywood is drawn at full thickness, but plywood sold that way is often a hair thinner, so measure yours and cut the pieces that fit between panels to match.

Shopping list

  • 21x2, 6 ftThe edging. Hardwood (poplar, maple or oak) if the store has it.
  • 2¾″ plywood, 2 × 4 ft panelBirch or another smooth hardwood plywood. It is the desk top, so pick panels that lie flat.
  • 1 set28″ three-rod hairpin legs, set of 4Three ½″ rods per leg.
  • ~20#10 × 1″ pan-head screwsFor the leg plates, if your legs don't come with screws.
  • ~201¼″ wood screwsFor joining the two plywood layers.
  • ~301¼″ brad nailsFor the edging.
  • 1Wood glue
  • —Wood filler, sandpaper 80 to 220 grit
  • 1PolyurethaneFor a hard writing surface.

Tools

  • Circular sawWith a straightedge guide for the plywood.
  • Miter saw or circular sawFor the edging.
  • Brad nailerOr a hammer and nail set.
  • Drill/driverWith a ⅛″ bit and a countersink.
  • ClampsOr weights for the glue-up.
  • Random orbit sander
  • Straightedge
  • Tape measure, speed square, pencil

Links for the hardware and tools ↓

Cut list

Six pieces from two boards and two panels. Label each piece with its letter in pencil as you cut it.

PartQtySize, inchesFrom
ATop panelsGlued face to face into one 1½″ panel.2¾ × 22½ × 46½¾″ plywood
BFront and back edging2¾ × 1½ × 481x2
CEnd edging2¾ × 1½ × 22½1x2

Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.

Hardware & tools

Everything besides the lumber, with a link for each.

Links go to Amazon. Woodable earns a small commission at no cost to you.

Required part

  • 28″ hairpin legs, 3-rod (set of 4)The plan is drawn for 28″ three-rod legs. Check your legs' instructions for the screw holes before drilling.1 set of 4View on Amazon

Fasteners

  • #10 × 1″ pan-head screwsFor the leg plates, if your legs don't come with screws.~20View on Amazon
  • 1¼″ wood screwsFor joining the two plywood layers.~20View on Amazon
  • 1¼″ brad nailsFor the edging.~30View on Amazon

Glue & finish

  • Wood gluePVA wood glue for indoor projects.1View on Amazon
  • Wood fillerStainable, sandable wood filler for screw and nail holes.View on Amazon
  • Sandpaper5″ hook-and-loop discs for a random orbit sander, 80 to 220 grit.View on Amazon
  • PolyurethaneFor a hard writing surface.1View on Amazon

Tools

Build it

Six steps. The 3D view follows along as you scroll. The parts you're working on are yellow, and the pocket holes or screws for that step are red.

Step 1 of 6Cut the pieces
  1. 01

    Cut the pieces

    Cut every piece on the cut list. A 2 × 4 ft plywood panel is 1½″ bigger each way than a top panel (A), so you only trim one long edge and one end of each:

    • A Top panels, two at 22½″ × 46½″
    • B Front and back edging, two at 48″
    • C End edging, two at 22½″

    Cut the edging (B) and (C) from a straight, clear 1x2. Poplar, maple or oak edging takes a knock better than pine.

  2. 02

    Glue up the top panel

    Lay one top panel (A) good face down on a flat floor or bench. Roll or spread an even coat of wood glue over its back, then lay the second panel (A) on it, good face up and edges flush all around. Both good faces end up outside. Drive twelve 1¼″ wood screws through the upper panel into the lower one in three rows: 6″ in from the front and back and down the middle.

    TipStand on it or stack weights on it while the glue sets. The screws are there to clamp, so start in the middle and work out.
  3. 03

    Add the edging

    Glue the end edging (C) to the two short edges of the panel (A), flush with both faces, and pin each with three 1¼″ brads. Then glue the front and back edging (B) along the long edges, covering the ends of (C), and pin them with six brads each plus two into the end of each end piece at the corners.

    Watch outKeep the brads in the middle of the edging's height so they hit plywood and not the glue line between the layers.
  4. 04

    Sand and finish the top

    Sand the edging (B) and (C) flush with the plywood faces (A). Plywood sold as ¾″ is often a little thinner, so the 1x2 may stand proud by a hair: take it down with 80 grit on a sanding block, keeping it flat, then sand everything with 120, 180 and 220. Fill any brad holes first.

    Finish it now, before the legs go on: three coats of polyurethane on the top and edges and one on the underside, sanding lightly between coats.

  5. 05

    Screw on the hairpin legs

    Lay the top face down on a blanket. Set a leg in each corner with its plate centered 3″ in from the front or back and 3″ in from the end, the rods leaning out toward the corner. Mark the holes, drill ⅛″ pilot holes no deeper than 1″, and drive a #10 × 1″ pan-head screw in every hole.

    Check your legs' own instructions first. The plan is drawn for 28″ legs with three ½″ rods and a 4″ plate. The screws must stay shorter than the 1½″ top is thick.

    Get this hardware: 28″ hairpin legs, 3-rod (set of 4)

  6. 06

    Stand it up

    Flip the desk onto its feet with a helper. Press on the foot caps that came with the legs. If it rocks on your floor, add a felt pad under the short leg.

Build safely

Build at your own risk. Check every measurement against your own lumber before you cut, test-fit before you glue, and wear eye and ear protection. Full disclaimer.

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Plan No. 111