Solid Wood Floating Shelves
Two chunky 1½″ shelves, 36″ and 48″, that slide onto hidden steel rods screwed into the studs. No brackets show and nothing hangs underneath.
- Skill
- Level 3 of 5 · Intermediate
- Build time
- 3 to 4 hours, plus finish
- Lumber
- 1 2x8 and 1 2x4
- Joinery
- Glue and hidden rod brackets
- Shelves
- One 48″ and one 36″, each 9⅝″ deep
- Finished size
- about 48″ L × 9⅝″ D × 1½″ H, long shelf
What you need
A 2x8 is actually 1½″ × 7¼″ and a 2x4 is 1½″ × 3½″. Every measurement in this plan uses the real size.
Shopping list
- 12x8, 8 ftThe back strips. Ripped down so the rods fit inside.
- 12x4, 8 ftThe fronts.
- 5Hidden floating shelf brackets, ½″ rod, 6″ longOne per stud: three for the 48″ shelf, two for the 36″.
- 10Screws for the bracket platesUsually included. If not, 3″ wood screws into the studs.
- 1Wood glue
- —Sandpaper, stain or oil
Tools
- Table sawFor ripping the 2x8.
- Miter saw or circular saw
- Drill/driverWith a ½″ brad-point bit at least 7″ long.
- Drill guideOr a drill press, to drill the rod holes straight.
- ClampsFour that open 12″ or more.
- Stud finder
- Level
- Random orbit sander
- Tape measure, pencil
Cut list
Four pieces from two boards. Label each piece with its letter in pencil as you cut it.
| Part | Qty | Size, inches | From |
|---|---|---|---|
| ABack strip, 48″ shelfRipped to 6⅛″ wide. | 1 | 1½ × 7¼ × 48 | 2x8 |
| BBack strip, 36″ shelfRipped to 6⅛″ wide. | 1 | 1½ × 7¼ × 36 | 2x8 |
| CFront, 48″ shelf | 1 | 1½ × 3½ × 48 | 2x4 |
| DFront, 36″ shelf | 1 | 1½ × 3½ × 36 | 2x4 |
Board layout. Each row is one board, cut left to right, with the remainder hatched. Dark lines are saw cuts, about ⅛″ wide.
Hardware & tools
Everything besides the lumber, with a link for each.
Links go to Amazon. Woodable earns a small commission at no cost to you.
Required part
Hidden floating shelf bracketsCheck your brackets' instructions for the hole size and rod length before you drill.5View on Amazon
Fasteners
- Screws for the bracket platesUsually included. If not, 3″ wood screws into the studs.10View on Amazon
Glue & finish
- Wood gluePVA wood glue for indoor projects.1View on Amazon
- Sandpaper5″ hook-and-loop discs for a random orbit sander, 80 to 220 grit.View on Amazon
- Wood stainOil-based or water-based interior wood stain.View on Amazon
- Danish oilWipe-on oil finish for indoor wood.View on Amazon
Tools
- Table sawFor ripping the 2x8.View on Amazon
- Miter saw or circular saw10″ compound miter saw: square, angled and beveled crosscuts.View on Amazon
- Drill/driverWith a ½″ brad-point bit at least 7″ long.View on Amazon
- Drill guideOr a drill press, to drill the rod holes straight.View on Amazon
- ClampsFour that open 12″ or more.View on Amazon
- Stud finderElectronic stud finder.View on Amazon
- Level24″ level.View on Amazon
- Random orbit sander5″ random orbit sander.View on Amazon
- Tape measure, pencil25 ft tape measure.View on Amazon
Build it
Six steps. The 3D view follows along as you scroll. The parts you're working on are yellow, and the pocket holes or screws for that step are red.
- 01
Cut the pieces
Cut the pieces to length:
- A Back strip, 48″ shelf, one at 48″
- B Back strip, 36″ shelf, one at 36″
- C Front, 48″ shelf, one at 48″
- D Front, 36″ shelf, one at 36″
Rip both back strips, (A) and (B), to 6⅛″ wide on a table saw. That's just deeper than the brackets' 6″ rods are long, so the rods end inside the back strip.
TipPick the straightest, flattest 2x8 and 2x4 in the pile, with no big knots near the ends. Let them sit indoors for a few days before you cut. - 02
Find the studs and drill the rod holes
Check your brackets' instructions for the hole size: for ½″ rods it's usually a ½″ bit. Find the studs where each shelf goes and mark them on the wall. They're usually 16″ apart.
On the 48″ back strip (A), mark three holes 16″ apart, centered on the length, to match your studs. Mark two on the 36″ back strip (B). Each hole is centered in the thickness, ¾″ from each face.
Drill each hole straight through the back strip, from the back edge to the front edge. Keep the bit square to the board both ways: a drill press or a drill guide makes this easy.
Watch outThe holes must line up with your studs, not with the drawing. If your studs aren't 16″ apart, drill the holes where yours are. - 03
Glue on the fronts
Spread glue along the front edge of each back strip, keeping it away from the holes, and clamp a front to it: (C) to the 48″ back strip (A) and (D) to the 36″ back strip (B). Line up the ends and the top faces. Clamps every 8″ or so.
The front covers the holes, so nothing shows once the shelf is up. Let the glue dry overnight.
- 04
Sand and finish
Sand the faces and ends with 80, 120 and 180 grit and round the front corners a little. Stain or oil the shelves and let them dry. It's much easier now than once they're on the wall.
- 05
Screw the brackets to the studs
Draw a level line on the wall for the center of each shelf's rods. Hold a bracket on the line over each stud, rod pointing straight out, and drive its screws into the stud: the ones that came with the brackets, or 3″ screws if yours came without.
Check that the rods are level with each other and square to the wall. A rod that droops or splays won't go into its hole.
Watch outStuds only. Drywall anchors can't hold a shelf that hangs out from the wall on a rod: the load pulls down and out on the screws. - 06
Slide on the shelves
Line up the holes in each back strip, (A) and (B), with the rods and push the shelf straight on, pressing on its front, (C) or (D), until its back meets the bracket plates.
TipIf a shelf is snug, tap it on with your palm, not a hammer. A dab of construction adhesive in each hole keeps it from sliding off, but it won't come off again easily.
Build at your own risk. Check every measurement against your own lumber before you cut, test-fit before you glue, and wear eye and ear protection. Full disclaimer.
